South of Gwalior, Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh, spreads over seven hills and around two lovely lakes. More recently the city was ruled by begums (queens), some of whom initiated innovations including a postal system, railways and water works. Today, evocative monuments are juxtaposed with contemporary buildings, teeming markets-places in the old walled city give way to shaded avenues and residential complexes, and traditional lifestyles mingle with modern with modern bustle. Bhopal is a useful base for several interesting short excursions.

Construction of the Taj-ul-Masjid, one of Bhopal's more recent monuments, began under Shah Jahan Begum, who ruled from 1868 to 1901, but was completed only in the 1970s. Among the largest mosques in the country, it has an impressive main hall, a striking facade and huge courtyard. Other important mosques include the Jami Masjid and the Moti Masjid. A curious mixture of European architectural styles, Shaukat Mahal at the entrance to the Chowk is said to have been designed by a remote relative of the Bourbons of France. Sardar Manzil close by was once the hall of public audience of former nawabs.

An important modern center for the art, the officially sponsored Bharat Bhavan houses a museum of folk art, an art gallery, a fine library of literature, and an active repertory theatre. The main palace of Dost Muhammad at Islamnagar, effectively combines Hindu and Islamic decorative art. Chaman Mahal and the two-storey Rani Mahal are the other lovely structures of the palace complex