Thiksey
Gompa was built some 600 years ago and consists of
12 levels ascending a hillside, culminating in an
incarnate Lama's private apartments at the summit.
The gompa contains 10 temples; below the monastery
itself are chapels and "houses" stretching
down the hillside. Some 100 monks of the yellow-hat
sect of Buddhism live here. After entering the main
courtyard to the immediate right and up several steps
is a new temple containing a large Buddha statue.
This Buddha figure, 15 meters tall was constructed
in 1970 to comemmorate a visit to Thiksey by the Dalai
Lama. The statue is the largest Buddha figure in Ladakh
and took four years to construct. The statue is made
of clay and covered with gold paint. Inside, the statue
is filled with both the Kandshur and the Tandshur
- volumes of Buddhist canonical texts. The statue
was made entirely by local craftsmen and represents
Maitreya, ("compassion" in Sanskrit) the
Buddha of the Future. The prophecy made of the Future
Buddha is that the world will be undergoing such chaos
that the Future Buddha will teach compassion to the
people.
Located directly above this temple
is a small narrow room used as a schoolroom for
local boys. Here the lamas instruct the children
and some are later selected to become lamas. Traditionally,
Ladakhi families donated one son to become a lama
although this practice is gradually disappearing.
Returning to the main courtyard and going up the
steep steps directly across from the new temple,
on the far wall will be mural of two Tibetan calendars
with the "Wheel of Life" depicted between
them. The central portion of the wheel has representations
of a snake, a bird and a pig, symbolizing greed,
desire and ignorance respectively. Buddhists believe
that it is crucial to overcome these earthly ties
in order to become enlightened and escape the cycle
of death and rebirth. The wheel is held by Yama,
a black figure who, after people's death, determines
their future fate based on their deeds during their
lifetime. To the right of these murals is the main
prayer room which contains racks of books along
the left wall. Many of these books are handwritten
or hard painted. Recent editions are done by block
printing, as was previously done in Tibet. In a
small room behind the Dukhang is a large image of
Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) flanked by two
smaller Bodhisttva images. On the left is the 11-headed
Avalokitesvara, form of the Buddha corresponding
to the Hindu god Shiva. Exiting the main prayer
room, partially down the staircase to the main courtyard
is a steep, narrow set of steps to the left. While
climbing these steps, one can see several temples
devoted to various guardian divinities. Near the
summit and to the right is a small temple devoted
to Maitreya, the future Buddha. The wall decorations
consist of a series of small images of lamas, each
placed in a separate wooden rack with thankas behind.
An enclosed verandah, which is actually over the
main prayer room, leads to the head lama's private
apartments, all of which were recently decorated
in Tibetan style. The inside walls of the verandah
have modern paintings of the eighty-four Tantric
Masters. On the rooftop is the Lamukhang temple
where only men may enter. Also on the rooftop is
Thiksey's library, containing numerous religious
books including volumes of the Kandshur and Tandshur
mentioned earlier.
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