Tak
Thok Gompa is situated some 10 km further up from
Chemre gompa in the Chemre Valley. The name Tak Thok
in Lladakhi means "Rock Rood" and refers
to the cave chapel found in this unusual gompa. The
Rimpoche of Tak Thok is from Tibet and is highly respected
by Ladakhis. The gompa houses about 55 lamas of the
Nying-ma-pa sect of Buddhism, also known as the "Old
Order". Members of this sect are followers of
Padme Sambhava's teachings and Tak Thok is the only
gompa in Ladakkh that follows this order. Entering
the main courtyard, one is immediately struck by the
rock outcroppings that surround the gompa. Indeed,
the wooden front of the chapel is only a front for
the cave behind it and most of the gompa consists
of rooms hollowed out of the stone cliff by nature
or man. The cave chapel is to the left as one enters
the central courtyard. A small anteroom to the cave
chapel has been recently painted with the Guardian
Divinities of the Four Directions. In the front of
the cave chapel are images of Padme Sambhava and Avalokitesvara.
Behind this image is a small locked door leading to
the small cave where Padme Sambhava is supposed to
have lived and meditated for three years. This cave
is not open to the public. The low roof of the chapel
is the stone of the cliff. Leaving the cave ahapel,
go up a flight of stairs and on the right will be
the Kandshur Lhakhang. The Kandshur is the 108 volumes
of Buddha's teachings and a complete set of this important
religious work is found in this temple. There are
also statues of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha)
with his two chief disciples by his side. The walls
are decorated with murals of guardian divinities.
Opposite the Kandshur Lhakhang and to the left is
a small chapel containing religious books and four
Buddha statues.
Returning to the central courtyard, the Dukhang or
main assembly hall will be on the right (the same
side as the courtyard entrance). The verandah entrance
to the Dukhang has beautiful new murals of guardian
divinities. These murals are covered by cloth all
year, except during the gompa's festival, in order
to preserve their color but just lift the cloth up
to admire the workmanship. In the Dukhang are several
rows of low seats for the lamas. Opposite the entrance
is a throne seat reserved solely for the Dalai Lama.
To the left of this throne seat is a wall painting
of Padme Shambhava and on the right is a painting
of Sakyamuni. On the right wall towards the front
is a glass-fronted case of small, colorful sculptures
made of butter mixed with barley flour. To the right
of this case are three large statues of Maitreya (the
Future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion). Padme Sambhava
and Dorje Takposal (a manifestation of Padme Sambhava).
The other walls are newly painted with depictions
of guardian divinities done by the same Ladakhi artist
who painted the topmost temple in Chemre. Across the
central courtyard of the Dukhang are behind a low
wall is the gompa's kitchen, interesting mainly for
its location under the overhanging rock-face.
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