Spituk
Gompa was built about 550 years ago by Gyalpo Bumide,
although one temple, dedicated to Mahakala was built
about 900 years ago. The Spitok is probably derived
from the Central Tibetan language and means "Effective
as an Example", referring to the fact that this
was the Tibetans' first monastery in Ladakh. Spituk
gompa contains both old temples and those built in
the 1970s. Ancient thankas are preserved here, some
having been taken from the Potala Palace and Lhasa
after the Chinese invaded. Some 125 yellow-hat sect
lamas are considered Spituk lamas, but at least half
of them live and pray at Spitok's dependent monasteries
at Sankar, Stok and Sabu. All the lamas gather together
for a major festival. The head lama of Spituk is also
the head Lama for Ladakh and represents Ladakh has
been India's serving ambassador to Mongolia and was
also a member of Parliament. After ascending and descending
several flights of stair, one is in the main courtyard.
It is here that Spitok's main festival, the Spitok
Gurstor, is celebrated in mid-winter. Masked dances
take place here, ending with the sacrificial destruction
of a cake. Hence, the festival is known as the Spitok
Festival of the Sacrifice of the 29th Day. The festival
takes place on the 28th and 29th days of the 11th
month of the Tibetan calendar. The monastery also
has a statue of Kali whose face is covered throughout
the year but displayed to the public for one day during
the festival. Steep steps leading from the main courtyard
lead to the Dukhang or main temple. The walls both
inside and outside the entryway have pictures of fierce
protecting deities. Inside the Dukhang are five rows
of low seats for the lamas and a high throne at the
far end, reserved for the Dalai Lama, although he
has only made one visit here since leaving Tibet in
1959. Behind the throne are manifestations of Lord
Buddha. On both side walls of the Dukhang are Buddhist
canonical texts.
Beside
the central throne are doors leading to a low dark
chapel behind. In a central position are images
of Tsong-kha-pa, founder of the yellow-hat sect
of Buddhism and his two chief disciples as well
as an image of the Buddha. On the left is an image
of Tara the Saviouress and consort of Avalokitesvara,
and on the right are statues of previous head lamas.
From the main courtyard one can reach another smaller
courtyard that is in front of the Chikhang temple,
another assembly hall similar to the Dukhang. This
temple was built around 1960 and contains beautiful
murals on all the walls. The room is dominated by
a statue of Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha. To
the right is a statue of the 11 headed Avalokitesvara,
the "Lord of All He Surveys" and analogous
to the Hindu god Shiva. A small room behind the
Buddha statue is dedicated to a guardian divinity
whose image remains covered all year, except for
one day during Spituk's winter festival. The new
Chokhang temple is several levels above the Dukhang
courtyard. It is here that funeral ceremonies take
place. The central large statue is of Sakyamuni.
To the left of the Buddha is a statue of Padme Sambhava,
an 8th century Indian Buddhist scholar who translated
the Buddhist texts into Tibetan from their original
languages of Pali and Sanskrit. To the right is
a statue of the goddess Tara. The temple also contains
many exquisite thankas, some quite new. Diagonally
opposite the Chokhang and on the same level is a
small temple called Dolma Lokhang which is devoted
to Tara (Dolma in Ladakh). In this temple are 21
beautiful statues of Tara, representing her different
forms. The gilded clay figure on a horse represents
the King of Ladakh, Shukdan. Next to the temple
is the head lama's private apartment.
The
largest temple, standing above the other temples
near the crest of the rocks is the Gonkhang. Although
another name for this temple is Kali Mata, the temple
is not dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali, but
rather to Mahakala, the fiercest Buddhist guardian
divinity. Together with the image of Mahakala are
the images of other fierce guardians: the "Six-Armed
One"a form of Mahakala, the White Guardian,
the Brother and Sister, Khyitra on his dog and the
Goddess on her horse. The last one is derived from
the Hindu goddess Kali who entered the Buddhist
pantheon of gods in a minor capacity. The images
of Mahakala and the six-armed form of Mahakala are
carved from black stone and are very old. In order
to clearly see the images in this dimly lit temple,
it is necessary to bring a very strong flashlight.