Phyang
Gompa is also known in Ladakhi as the Gouon gompa,
meaning "blue peak" for it is beautifully
situated on a hilltop above the small village of Chhiwang,
about 22 km west of Leh. The monastery was built by
King Lkra-Shis-Namgyal, founder of the Namgyal dynasty
in 1500 after defeating the last of the Lha-Chen kings.
Lkra-Shis-Namgyal ruled from 1500 to 1532 and during
his reign, filled the monastery with beautiful statues,
thankas and copies of the Kandshur (the translated
word of the Buddha) and the Thandshur (the 225 volume
commentary on the Kandshur compiled by the religious
teacher Du-ston, 1290 to 1364 AD). These extremely
valuable texts are still at Phyang gompa. Phyang is
a monastery of the red-hat sect of Buddhism with over
100 lamas. The head lama studied Buddhist philosophy
at a university near Lhasa for eight years and had
much of the gompa renovated in 1975. After ascending
several small flights of stairs, one reaches the rather
small main courtyard with its tall flag pole in the
center. The Dukhang or main assembly hall is off this
courtyard up another small flight of steps. The verandah
in front of the Dukhang has been recently painted
with beautiful murals of the Guardians of the Four
Directions.
Entering the Dukhang one immediately
notices the glassed-in sanctuary opposite the entrance.
The central statue is Amitabha (the Boundless Light
Buddha or Buddha of the West) and to the left are
statues of a large Avalokitesvara with 1,000 arms,
which symbolize his enormous strength, and various
lamas of the red-hat sect. To the right of the central
statue are images of Tilopa (a founder of the red-hat
sect) and Maitreya. In the background the statues
portray (from the left) Sakyamuni (the Historical
Buddha), Vairocana (the Teaching Buddha) and Maitreya.
The walls of the Dukhang are decorated with murals
of Vajradhara (a Buddha manifestation), the Five
Buddhas (Vairocana and the Supreme Buddhas of the
Four Directions) and small paintings of the Thousand
Buddhas in the background.
Hanging on the columns on the right
side of the Dukhang is an enormous rolled-up thanka.
This thanka, embroidered with depictions of all
the guardian divinities, is unfurled during the
Phyang festival, usually in August, and is four
stories high when completely unrolled. After exiting
the Dukhang turn to the left and walk along the
pathway until you reach the next left turn, to the
Gonkhang. This temple is dedicated to Mahakala the
"Great and Black One", the fiercest guardian
divinity in the Buddhist pantheon of gods. The statues
at the front of the temple are of Mahakala flanked
by four statues of his various manifestations. The
faces of these statues are covered with cloth and
only displayed to the public once a year during
the Phyang festival. The pillars in this temple
are partially covered with tiger hides that were
presented by an official of Kind Jamying Namgyal
to Phyang gompa in 1595. Also hanging from the pillars
in this temple are ancient Mongolian armaments,
including armour, shields and helmets. These objects
were taken from Mongolian soldiers who were killed
in a battle on the site the gompa now occupies.
For no discernible reason, on the right side of
the temple is a poorly stuffed Siberian crane, taken
near the Chinese border and over the entry door
are two stuffed ibex heads. The wall murals in the
Gokhang depict Mahakala's various and numerous manifestations.
Behind the Mahakala satues are wall murals of Mila
Ras-pa, Sakyamuni, Tilopa, Marpa and Naropa. With
the exception of Sakyamuni , these are all historical
personages associated with the founding of the red-hat
sect.
The
"New" Dukhang was built by Dam-chos Gyur-med,
the 31st and previous incarnation of the present
head lama. The verandah to this Dukhang also has
wall murals of the Guardians of the Four Directions.
Inside the Dukhang and directly opposite the entrance
is a throne sea reserved for the head lama. To the
right of the throne are stucco images of Avalokitesvara
with four arms and various lamas of the red-hat
sect. To the left of the throne are images of three
lamas, the middle one being Kun-dga Grags-pa, founding
lama of Phyang gompa. There is also a small group
of Kashmiri Buddhist bronze statues flanking the
throne. These date from the 14th century at the
latest. The side walls of the Dukhang contain murals
of Sakyamuni flanked by his two chief disciples
and images of various Buddhas with the eight different
hand gestures: that of blessing, teaching, etc.
The entrance walls are decorated with murals of
the various guardian divinities. On the right side
of the Dukhang are also two chortens decorated with
semi precious stones. The larger one contains the
relics Dam-chos Gyur-med, the previous Rimpoche
of Phyang and the builder of this temple. Along
the top of the Dukhang is a narrow walkway with
mural paintings on three sides. The two side walls
depict guardian divinities. The wall opposite the
entrance shows Jig-sten Gon-po, a holy teacher associated
with the red-hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism, in the
center. He is flanked by various other lamas of
the red-hat sect.