Matho
Gompa lies about 20 km south of Leh on the other side
of the Indus River and offers spectacular views of
the Ladakh range from its perch on top of a ridge.
Matho gompa was first established in the 16th century
by Tungpa Dorje after he had traveled extensively
in Tibet. Matho is the only representative monastery
in Ladakh of the Sakya order of Tibetan Buddhism.
This is a particular religious order. Centered on
the Sa-skya monastery in Tibet, which was founded
in 1075 AD. Today the gompa has about 60 lamas and
30 novices from the larger gompas in Ladakh. Entering
the gompa's central courtyard, one sees a tall flag
pole in the center and another one at the far end.
On the same side of the courtyard as the entrance
and up a few steps is the Lhakhang Soma or New Temple,
built in 1974. The verandah has new mural paintings
of the Guardians of the Four Directions and an elaborately
and colorfully decorated doorway. Inside the Lhakhang
all the wall murals were painted in 1977 and are very
colorfully done.
The
left wall next to the entrance portrays Matho's
founder, Tungpa Dorje, with representatives of Matho's
two oracles below him. Next to him is an idealized
portrait of the present head lama of the Sakya sect.
The right entrance wall shows a White Mahakala (a
particularly fierce protecting deity) and to the
left of this is a painting of the Four Headed Sarvavid
(the omniscient or guardian aspect of Vairocana
(the Teaching Buddha).
The wall murals on the left side of the Lhakhang
depict various lamas of the Sakya sect while the
right wall shows the various manifestations of Sakyamuni,
the Historical Buddha. The central panel of the
right wall depicts Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Mila
Ras-pa, historical personages associated with the
early doctrines of the Saka sect. In front of the
Lhakhang is dominated by the throne seat reserved
for the Sakya sect's head lama who now resides in
Dehra Dun. The central statue behind the throne
is Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha, blanked by
the red decorated hats worn by Matho's oracles.
Surrounding the statue are numerous small Buddha
statues flanked by the canonical texts of Buddhism.
After leaving the Lhakhang, the entrance to the
ukhang or main assembly hall is visible on the right
side of the courtyard. The verandah is again painted
with the Guardians of the Four Directions but the
murals are old and not in very good condition. Inside
the Dukhang are two rows of seats for the lamas
and a throne seat reserved for the Rimpoche or head
lama of Matho. The four statues behind the throne
seat are, from the left, the thousand-armed form
of Avalokitesvara (a Buddhist deity analogous to
the Hindu god Shiva and believed to be reincarnated
in the Dalai Lama), Maitreya (the Future Buddha
of Compassion), Sakyamuni and a blessing Buddha.
The wall on the left side of the Dykhang shows various
Sakya lamas and the Four Headed Sarvavid. The right
wall depicts the four-armed manifestation of Avalokitesvara,
a blue Sakyamuni and two Sakya lamas. The entrance
wall has Mahakala the fiercest Buddhist guardian
divinity on the left and other protecting deities
on the right. Upon leaving the Dukhang, climb the
flight of steps on the right, walk through the enclosed
passageway towards the left until a wooden ladder
is reached. Climb the ladder and at the top go through
the door immediately in front and enter a small
courtyard. Go through the door at the opposite end
of the courtyard and there are two rooms to be seen:
the Gonkhang on the left and the gompa museum on
the right. Women are not allowed in the Gonkhang
and photography is prohibited.
The
Gonkhang, in which meditation takes place, is ascribed
great spiritual power as it is the room in which
Matho's order prays and enters into a trance. The
oracle's special clothing is hung in this room and
the Gokhang also contains old weapons and thanks,
masks and statues. Directly opposite the entrance
is the seat of the head lama and in front of that
is a table for maize and oil lamps. According to
an old custom, a representative of every family
from Matho village brings a small bowl of maize
grain from the first harvest to this room. This
practice is not accompanied by any special ceremony.
One lama, changed every three years, is particularly
responsible for the Gonkhang. The museum opposite
the Gonkhang contains, among other things, numerous
thanks, a stuffed yak, a poorly stuffed and preserved
snow leopard, masks, stucco statuettes. Phurbos
(ceremonial daggers) and miscellaneous ritual objects.
Leaving this area of the gompa and returning to
the small outer courtyard, on the right is the Lamdre,
a shrine in honor of the Lamdre lineage of lamas.
Lamdre is a special teaching associated with the
Sakya sect. Photography is not.