Likir
Gompa was established in the 15th century and early
in its history became responsible for the oversight
of Alchi gompa, to which it has posted lamas up to
the present day. The gompa is set on an isolated ridge
a few kilometers north of Saspol. The road approaching
the gompa makes a wide semi-circle around its base,
affording beautiful views of the gompa from different
vantage points. Likir belongs to the yellow-hat sect
of Buddhism and currently houses about 120 lamas.
The head lama, the younger bother of the Dalai Lama,
has married (against the rule of the sect) and is
permanently absent from the gompa. The gompa school
has some thirty pupils who learn three languages besides
Ladakhi, Hindi and English, as these are the national
languages of India, and Tibetan for religious purposes.
The pupils, some of who will be selected as lamas,
live part of the time in the gompa and part of the
time with their parents. Climb up to Likir's central
courtyard and immediately on the right is the main
Dukhang or main assembly hall.
The entrance verandah is painted with the Guardians
of the Four Directions on either side of the entry
door. On the right verandah wall is a wheel of life
mandala held by Yama, the divinity that decides
a person's future fate after death. In the main
Dukhang, there are six rows of seats for the lamas.
This is where the day's prayers take place and also
where the lamas take their meals. Numerous thankas
hang from the columns and walls in the Dukhang.
At the front on the left are two large chortens.
Inside the chorten on the left is a statue of Avalokitesvara,
a Bodhisattva whose name means "Lord of All
He Surveys" and who is believed to be incarnated
in the Dalai Lama. The chorten on the right contains
a statue of Aitabha the Buddha of the West.
In the center at the front of the hall are three
large statues: in the left and central position
are statues of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha)
and to the right is Maitreya (the Future Buddha
or Buddha of Compassion). To the right of this are
statues of Tsong-kha-pa, founder of the yellow-hat
sect with his two disciples. The throne seat in
the centre of the hall is reserved for Likir's head
lama and visiting head lamas from other gompas.
The walls on both sides of the Dukhang are lined
with glass-fronted bookcases containing the Kandshur
and the Thandshur. The entrance walls are painted
with various guardian divinities. Near the entrance,
by looking up, one can see two large, rolled-up
thankas hanging from the beams. These thankas are
displayed only during the winter festival. One depicts
Sakyamuni and the other Likir's guardian divinity.
Exiting the Dukhang, diagonally across from the
courtyard's entrance is the "New" Dukhang,
about 200 years old. Interestingly, the entrance
verandah is not painted with the Guardians of the
Four Directions, as is the usual practice. Instead,
the wall on the left depicts the different ways
a lama may wear his robes while the right wall shows
the correct way lamas should behave. The Guardians
of the Four Directions appear on the right entrance
wall inside the New Dukhang. The main image in this
Dukhang is Avalokitesvara with 1000 arms and 11
heads. On either side of this image are bookcases,
filled mostly with volumes of the Sumbum, a narrative
of the life of Tsong-kha-pa. The left side wall
is painted with the 35 Confessional Buddhas. The
right side wall depicts the 16 Arhats (worthy ones
who have achieved Nirvana) on either side of a central
image of Sakyamuni flanked by his two chief disciples.
After
leaving the New Dukhang, turn left and go up a ladder
one flight of steps. Step through the doorway to
the left into a courtyard. On the far left side
is an entry door into the Zinchun, the head lama's
room, where the Dalai Lama stays when he visits
Likir. The room is hung with numerous thankas and
contains images of various lamas. Of particular
interest are the images of the 21 Manifestations
of the White Tara (the Saviouress and consort of
Avalokitesvara). Each image is decorated with brocaded
fabric and the entire effect of these images arranged
around the room is very striking. Leave the courtyard
outside the head lama's room, turn left and go down
a few steps. On the left is the new Gonkhang, devoted
to guardian divinities. Work on this temple began
in 1983 and was completed a year later. The artistry
of this temple vividly demonstrates the continuing
vitality of Buddhism in this region. The left side
wall depicts guardian divinities while the right
side wall shows Sakyamuni, his disciples and various
lamas. The right front wall depicts Tsong-kha-pa.
The glass-fronted room at the front of the Gonkhang
contains images of the gompa's guardian divinities.
These images are covered by cloth all year and are
displayed only during the gompa's festival.
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