Lamayuru
Gompa, with its medieval village seemingly growing
out of the rocky hillside, below it lies 15 km east
of the Fatu La on the Srinagar-Leh Highway. Lamayuru
belongs to the red-hat sect of Buddhism. In the past,
the gompa housed up to 400 lamas, but presently only
30 to 50 lamas live here, although about 150 lamas
belong to the gompa. The other lamas stay and teach
at Lamayuru;s daughter gompas located in outlying
villages. Twice a year, all the lamas gather for prayers,
accompanied by three days of masked dancing. These
gatherings occur in the second and fifth months of
the Tibetan calendar (corresponding usually to March
and July). Ancient legends say that at the time of
Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha, Lamayuru's valley
was a clear lake where nags (holy serpents) lived.
The Bodhisattva Madhyantaka foretold that the lake
would be emptied and a monastery built there. The
legend continues by saying Naropa, an 11th century
Indian Buddhist scholar, came to Lamayuru and spent
many years meditating in a cave, which can still be
seen in the Dukhang.
Naropa then caused a split in the surrounding hillside
and the lake emptied through this opening. After
the lake emptied, Naropa found a dead lion covered
by the waters of the lake. On this spot, Naropa
built the first temple, the Singhe Ghang (Lion Mound).
Other historical accounts relate that in the 10th
century the King of Ladakh ordered the building
of Lamayuru and placed it under the supervision
of Rinchen Zangbo. The original gompa was composed
of five buildings although only the central one
still stands. The 16th century, Ladakh's King Jamyang
Namgyal was cured of leprosy by a lama from Tibet.
In gratitude, the King gave the gompa to this lama
and also bestowed other privileges - no taxes were
collected and the area surrounding the gompa was
declared a sanctuary where none could be arrested.
For this reason, Ladakh's still refer to Lamayuru
as Tharpa Ling, the "Place of Freedom".
Walk to the large building next to a tall prayer
flag pole. Go in the doorway, up a flight of steps
to the main courtyard. The Dukhang is on the right
side of the courtyard. The entrance verandah has
been recently painted with a colourful depiction
of the Guardians of the Four Directions. The mural
on the left wall depicts the proper way for a lama
to live. The Dukhang was redecorated in 1970 with
new column paintings. In the wall on the right side
of the Dukhang is a small cave known as Naropa's
cave, where he is supposed to have meditated for
several years. This cave contains a sttue of Naropa
as well as statues of Marpa (Naropa's student who
became a translator of religious texts and famous
poet) and Mila Ras-pa (Marpa's student and a spiritual
head of the red-hat sect of Buddhism, famous for
his asceticism). The right side of the Dukhang has three complete
sets of the Kandshur the 108 volumes of Buddha's
teachings) in lovely glass-fronted bookcases. These
cases were made in 1977 and have elaborate painted
decorations above and below the shelves holding
the books. The statue near the middle of the right
side wall is Sakyamuni although not with his usual
blue hair. Opposite the Dukhang's entrance, on the
left side are five statues of various red-hat lamas.
In front of these are statues of Amitabha (the Boundless
Light Buddha), Padme Sambhava (an 8th century Indian
Buddhist translator of Buddhist texts into Tibetan)
and Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha). In the center
is a throne seat reserved for Lamayuru's head lama,
who is also the head lama of Phyang gompa (both
Lamayuru and Phyang belong to the same sub-sect
of the red-hat sect of Buddhism). To the right of
the head lama's seat is a chorten of no particular
significance and statues of Padme Sambhava and Tungdup
Tshogs-gyal, a previous head lama of Lamayuru. In
the background are thankas depicting Buddha's incarnations.
Behind the main Dukhang is a Gonkhang, a temple
devoted to guardian divinities. In the temple's
new glass-fronted cases are various images. Starting
from the left there is a case of lovely sculptures
made of butter mixed with barley flour for Lamayuru's
festivals; Mahakala the fiercest guardian divinity,
Apshi, a guardian of the gompa; Radha Shree, a founder
of the religious sect to which Lamayuru belongs;
three guardian divinities and another Apshi riding
a horse. In front of the cases is Tara, reflecting
her twenty-one manifestations (Tara is the consort
of Avalokitesvara and known as the Saviouress).
After leaving the main Dukhang, take the steps
on the left up one flight. Go to the right and immediately
on the left is another Gonkhang devoted to the guardian
divinities depicted on the temple's side walls.
During the gompa's festival (usually in March),
the masked dancers impersonate the guardians depicted
in this temple. There are three chortens in the
front, the larger central one being decorated with
turquoise and coral. The chorten on the right contains
the relics of a previous head lama. This temple
has statues of various lamas, as well as murals
of the lamas on the wall behind the statues. Separate
from the large building containing the Dukhang is
an old, small temple dedicated to Avalokitesvara.
In the alcove opposite the entrance is a very old
eight foot high image of Avalokitesvara with 1,000
arms and eyes in each hand (symbolizing his enormous
strength) and eleven heads (nie Bodhisattva heads,
one head angry at the suffering in the world and
a Buddha head on top), Avalokitesvara's name means
"Lord of All He Surveys" and he is velieved
to be reincarnated in the Dalai Lama. In the alcove
with this image is a collection of smaller images
of Avalokitesvara, Padme Sambhava in the center
front and smaller of the statues of 8 Bodhisattvas.
On the wall to the right of the alcove is a recent
but very well painted Avalokitesvara, again with
1,000 arms and eleven heads. On the right side wall
is a mural of all the various divinities a Buddhist
will see after death. The left side wall and the
entrance wall depict Buddha's incarnations.
Go
through a maze of buildings to Singhe Ghang temple,
which may be original to the time of the monastery's
founding as its wall murals and images are similar
to those found at Alchi and dated to the 10th century.
The main image is a large Vairocana (the Teaching
Buddha) seated on a lion throne with a garuda (mythical
bird) and sea monsters surrounding his head. Stucco
images of the Buddhas of the Four Directions are
on the back wall. The left side wall has a mural
of an 11-headed Avalokitesvara and also a mandala
painting of Vairocana. The right side wall murals
have been almost totally obliterated by water damage.
The wooden pillars and beams are all from the Zanskar
Valley.